Dominique Ansel’s New Tasting Menu


At U.P., pastry chef Dominique Ansel’s new after-hours tasting-menu venture, dessert-cocktail combos based on life’s firsts deliver rushes of recollection.
U.P. is a very exclusive place. There are only eight seats, first of all. To get a seat, you have to register online at least 7 weeks in advance, and even then you might not get a seat. They have ticket sellings periodically, and the tickets sell out very quickly. I can't believe that people would be so eager for a few desserts. All 8 desserts together with drinks are $110 per person, and you have to sign up in pairs.
One of his desserts, First Kiss, involves bringing a smooth, voluptuous ceramic bowl designed to feel like a woman’s cheek to the person's lips. (A stubbly “male” version is also available.) Sweet raspberry liquid fills your mouth, along with small spheres that tasted like cream soda. Getting to the final prize—a tiny portion of panna cotta—required a kiss of the so-called French variety. The pairing drink for this course was buttery popcorn rum with Coke, designed to bring back the feeling of a movie theater, where a lot of people have had their first kiss.
This is a very exclusive dessert tasting bar, and even though it sounds very good, I do not think I would go if I had to pay $220 for me and a friend. It is just too extreme.

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